Steve 155C
New member
Which circuit should the main fuse be added to and what amp fuse should I use? Thanks.
MK1 - Adding a main fuse?
- Thread starter Steve 155C
- Start date
Steve
The fitting of a main fuse is not that straight a answer but you would put it on the feed from the solenoid large brown ,first you need to check what the current drain is with everything turned on without the engine running with a amp meter then go to the next fuse up.
Here comes the but If say you end up with a 40amp fuse and you have a short on a low current circuit say the rear lights the wiring will still burn .
So you could put inline fuses on the supply to switches or the feeds from them (side lamps /headlamps) ignition switch not the igntion circit to coil, with say a male and female terminal or go for a fuse box and do the same please do not use nasty crimp terminals they will fail
Neil
give me a ring if you want
The fitting of a main fuse is not that straight a answer but you would put it on the feed from the solenoid large brown ,first you need to check what the current drain is with everything turned on without the engine running with a amp meter then go to the next fuse up.
Here comes the but If say you end up with a 40amp fuse and you have a short on a low current circuit say the rear lights the wiring will still burn .
So you could put inline fuses on the supply to switches or the feeds from them (side lamps /headlamps) ignition switch not the igntion circit to coil, with say a male and female terminal or go for a fuse box and do the same please do not use nasty crimp terminals they will fail
Neil
give me a ring if you want
Scott Simpson
New member
Hi Steve,
My s/e has exactly what Neil has suggested here and has had no trouble as yet with a 30 amp fuse installed. However, I've hardly ever had to use the halogen headlights for any longer than the MOT tester wants them on for!!
I've not got a cigar lighter fitted either, so no sat-nav, electric fan, drinks warmer or mobile phone charger is likely to overload the system, like yours will be!
If you need a fuse holder fitted, I have the proper double roll crimper that'll ensure a good connection.
Scott
My s/e has exactly what Neil has suggested here and has had no trouble as yet with a 30 amp fuse installed. However, I've hardly ever had to use the halogen headlights for any longer than the MOT tester wants them on for!!
I've not got a cigar lighter fitted either, so no sat-nav, electric fan, drinks warmer or mobile phone charger is likely to overload the system, like yours will be!
If you need a fuse holder fitted, I have the proper double roll crimper that'll ensure a good connection.
Scott
Steve, I split all the circuits in the dash loom, that I wanted to protect and brought them out, on soldered bullet connectors. I then fitted a small fuse box on the drivers side A pillar trim, above the parcel shelf (nicely out of sight) and connected it up with the bullet connectors.
Better to be safe than sorry and make sure it doesn't go up in flames, for the sake of a few fuses. If you don't want to fit a fuse box, then do it with in-line fuse holders.
Tommy
Better to be safe than sorry and make sure it doesn't go up in flames, for the sake of a few fuses. If you don't want to fit a fuse box, then do it with in-line fuse holders.
Tommy
ScottScott Simpson said:
I don't think mine has a sat nav....must check, did they do them with +ve earth in 64?
Surely in-line fuses or fuse boxes are a good idea to safeguard against wiring that might rub on something and cause a short, rather than for something that has a large power drain?
Insulation in the bulb holders of the front sidelamps is pretty rubbish and doesn't get any better with age. Very prone to short circuits in the sidelamps, which in turn melts the loom and potentially starts a fire.
Have seen plenty of mk1 cortina wiring looms, with the sidelamp wiring burnt clean out through the side of the loom.
Have seen plenty of mk1 cortina wiring looms, with the sidelamp wiring burnt clean out through the side of the loom.
Scott Simpson
New member
Hi Pete,
I couldn't agree more mate, in-line fuse holder are very discreet, AJT has both headlights protected, as well as the main solenoid to ignition switch wire.
I've also seen plenty of corroded sidelight units, that are full of holes and anything else that can get in to them, that would likely cause a major short/burnout.
I've been toying with an idea to wire a relay into the horns and headlights, to provide extra protection and a noise at MOT time!
My local tester, doesn't believe that AJT's horns work perfectly well, it just has to be travelling at 40mph or more!!
Scott 8)
I couldn't agree more mate, in-line fuse holder are very discreet, AJT has both headlights protected, as well as the main solenoid to ignition switch wire.
I've also seen plenty of corroded sidelight units, that are full of holes and anything else that can get in to them, that would likely cause a major short/burnout.
I've been toying with an idea to wire a relay into the horns and headlights, to provide extra protection and a noise at MOT time!
My local tester, doesn't believe that AJT's horns work perfectly well, it just has to be travelling at 40mph or more!!
Scott 8)
